Not many regions in the world can boast of climatic fusion. A melding of crisp, sunlit mountain days and hot scrub and brush. The Italian region of Alto Adige is just that – a meeting of Alpine mountain slopes and hot valley floors reminiscent of the Mediterranean.
Lying just at the southern edge of Austria's Tyrol, Alto Adige is Italy's most northerly wine region. A "Y-shaped valley" as described by Master Sommelier Tim Gaiser, who is deeply familiar with the region. To the east lies Veneto and to the west, Lombardy.
The region is not only a climatic fusion but a cultural one as well, owing part of its unique character to the blending of native Italian culture with those of its neighbors, Switzerland and Austria. The lasting influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire is still present and German is widely spoken alongside Italian.
When it comes to wine the region punches well above its weight, as Gaiser explains: "It's a small place, that makes up a tiny percentage of Italy's overall production, however more than 90 percent of its production is DOC quality." The region boasts, out of its total production area, the highest percentage of DOC-quality level wine in the country.
Vineyards of the Dolomites
Against the surreal backdrop of mountains laden with snow; citrus, apple and cypress trees all thrive in the warm, sheltered valley. The region's snowy peaks also provide fantastic skiing, particularly in Val Gardena, which offers some of Italy's biggest and best skiing, as well as being a popular hub for other mountain sports.
Wine educator and ambassador, May Matta-Aliah DipWSET, CWE explains: "The topography of the region is truly unique. You have heat-trapped river valleys flanked by Alpine Peaks, so you have a tremendous variation in altitude in a very small region." These heat-trapping qualities make the region the fourth-warmest in Italy, with summers receiving more than their fair share of sunshine hours. So much so that the region's main city, Bolzano, is frequently hotter than Sicily on summer days.
Gaiser describes the region as "a combination of geography and climate. Italy is very region-specific, more so even than France. Alto Adige is an alpine place with 75 percent of its vineyards planted on hillsides, with some slopes at 70-degree angles."
As Matta-Aliah adds: "The range of vineyard elevation goes from 660 feet to 3300 feet, which allows for 20 different grape varieties to be planted in an area the same size of the Chablis region in France, which is dedicated 100-percent to a single grape."
Many grapes make great wines
White wine accounts for 62 percent of the region's entire production with red wine making up the rest.
The most planted white grape variety – and now the most planted grape variety of any type in the regio – is Pinot Grigio. The second most-planted white variety is Gewürztraminer, followed by Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Müller-Thurgau. There are also the less commonly planted Kerner, Moscato Giallo, Riesling, Sylvaner and Veltliner grapes.
For reds, by far, the most planted is Schiava, which is indigenous to the region and also known as Vernatsch. Schiava was the region's most widely planted grape variety, irrespective of color, until recently when Pinot Grigio surpassed it. The second most-planted is Lagrein, also indigenous, followed by Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet and lastly, in tiny amounts, Moscato Rosa.
Clear, clean and crisp
The climatic conditions of Alto Adige, and the plethora of grapes that can be grown, allow for the full arsenal of fruit-forward wines ranging from zippy sparklings and aromatic whites to noble reds and unctuous dessert wines.
Despite the scope of wines the region makes, there are some defining characteristics shared across the board. According to Matta-Aliah, "the typical profile is wines that have generous ripe fruit, this area is not lacking for sunshine during the growing season, but with a core of beautiful acidity, due to the high elevation vineyards in the region".
Gaiser says it is the region's "huge diurnal variations which give the wines both purity and power". The wines also tend to have "high natural acidity, which makes them brilliant food wines. They are very transparent, the wines reflect the terroir very clearly. The winemaking is very precise."
High natural acid and a crystalline fruit purity have become hallmarks of the region's wines.
The whites
Naturally, the more aromatic varieties thrive in the alpine conditions, as Matta-Aliah describes. "The Pinot Grigio wines from Alto Adige tend to be richer and more complex than a lot of the simple wines coming from the Veneto region a little further south. Pinot Bianco also has a good presence in the region and makes very charming wines with pretty white-flower aromas and a refreshing acidity.
"Last but not least, Gewürztraminer does really well here, offering its full exotic spectrum of aromas and flavors while maintaining a nice freshness that can sometimes be difficult to find in wines from that grape."
As Gaiser notes, the spiritual home of Gewürztraminer is one of the region's towns, Tramin.
Finally, as Gaiser also points out, there are "certain white blends unique to the region, although it's not a big production. There's a 100-year tradition of these blends that are made in and around Terlano."
The reds
Although whites undoubtedly dominate production, some truly excellent reds are made. Rich and spicy, they typically pair well with the local cuisine, which leans on rich mountain game meats.
Of the many varieties, the only two indigenous to the area are Schiava and Lagrein. Schiava used to be the region's most prolific for a reason, it's easy-to-grow and was for many years the workhorse red grape of the region.
However, the penchant for cheap and cheerful is changing, as Matta-Aliah explains. "In the 1980s there was the first big shift towards improving quality. In the past 20 years, the focus has been on better matching of grape varieties to individual terroirs, uprooting varieties that are not performing well in certain vineyards, some clonal selection, especially on Schiava, improved training techniques and an overall reduction in yields."
Matta-Aliah enthuses: "I believe the indigenous Schiava has a lot of potential, it is light on its feet and makes wines that are incredibly easy to drink. I often position Schiava as a wine you can think of as a 'deeper rosé' instead of a light red. Served chilled, it pairs incredibly well with a plate of charcuterie, cheese, a pizza or a light pasta, it is a very easy wine to enjoy."
The more sophisticated Lagrein, however, tends to offer a more refined and interesting style of Alto Adige wine, one that people are beginning to sit up and take notice of. Some great Pinot Noir is also made.
Lovely Lagrein
Lagrein is the child of grape varieties Teroldego and Schiava Gentile, and a relative of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Dureza. The first documented mention of Lagrein in Alto Adige was in the year 1318. It is generally viewed as the oldest historically proven grape variety in Alto Adige that is still cultivated today.
Grown best on warm, sheltered vineyard plots, Lagrein reds tend to be rich with notes of plum, dark cherry and bitter chocolate. The wine's typically tannic, black forest fruit character and balanced acidity generally warrant cellaring. Oak can also impart a subtle, spicy character but it has, in the past, been used in a heavy-handed manner. However, with the fashion for lighter wines, this is changing, and some producers are beginning to experiment with techniques like shorter maceration times to create easier drinking wines that do not require so much cellar time.
On that lighter note, Lagrein also offers, in the form of Lagrein Kretzer, a rich, fruit-driven rosé which can cellar.
Lagrein's ability to produce concentrated, ageworthy reds has piqued the interest of some producers in both Australia and California's Central Coast. In Australia's cooler regions, the variety has even had a modicum of success with around 40 producers currently growing it.
Past and future viticulture
The vineyards are likely, as Matta-Aliah says, "to see a decrease in Schiava plantings but an increase in the quality of the wines being produced from that grape as better clones are brought into production and some of the new vineyards get a little older".
She feels wines from Lagrein are likely to get better as the grape thrives in warmer conditions, but harvest dates will undoubtedly move forward and there are "increasingly erratic weather patterns". Producers have already started trialing more resilient grape varieties, like Solaris and Bronner. Solaris is both frost-resistant and able to perform at high altitudes, making it an ideal candidate for experimentation along with other emerging grape varieties, terroirs and techniques.
Looking forward
Part of the growing appeal of Alto Adige is down to the increase of adventurous and experimental consumers. As Matta-Aliah explains: "More than ever, today's wine consumers are looking to expand their horizons, they are open to trying new wines, they want to be surprised, so having wines that are unique to this region is a lot more interesting."
The region also tends to be easy on the wallet offering great wines at hard-to-beat prices. As Gaiser states, the region has "become really good at promoting their wines. The price points are good… Pinot Grigio is the most popular white wine by the glass in the US and the best wines are by far from Alto Adige."
The region also has a distinct commercial advantage in that most of its wines are labeled by grape variety making them extremely easy for consumers to understand. Both their affordability and customer-friendly nature have seen the wines steadily gain popularity. As Matta-Aliah expresses "they are not trend-driven wines but have continued to gain market share through steady growth. They are also terrific by-the-glass wines."
The appeal and reputation of Alto Adige is growing and, with it, recognition of some of its top producers and their wines.
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July 05, 2020 at 06:22AM
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