Kriselle Cellars Tasting Room
Photo, courtesy Kriselle CellarsViognier is a white grape variety. Its origins are unknown. It is widely believed that it originated in Croatia and was brought to the Rhone Valley by the Romans, although there is no evidence of this. Genetic analysis, however, indicates that it is related to Freisa and Nebbiolo, two Piedmontese red grape varieties, and that it may also be either a half-brother or grandparent of Syrah. Considered one of the “noble” grape varieties, it reaches its most sublime expression in the northern Rhone Valley, where it is the only grape variety permitted for the production of white wines in the Condrieu appellation.
The variety almost became extinct. It proved to be particularly susceptible to diseases, especially powdery mildew and phylloxera, and its cultivation steadily decreased. By 1965, there were only about 30 acres left of Viognier vineyards in the northern Rhone. Since then, it has made a remarkable comeback. Today, there are over 13,000 acres of Viognier under cultivation in France; mostly in the Rhone and Languedoc. Additionally, it is widely grown in the U.S., especially in California (3,000 acres), Oregon and Virginia, as well as in Canada, Chile, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Japan and South Africa.
Viognier is a difficult grape to grow. It’s early budding and is vulnerable to spring frosts. In addition to being disease prone, its yield is low and often variable. It requires a long growing season to fully develop its aromatic potential, but it is sensitive to high heat levels. In hot climates, the grapes can develop high sugar levels before the aromatic notes are fully developed.
According to Kiley Evans, winemaker at 2 Hawk Winery, and one of Oregon’s top Viognier producers,
“the picking window on Viognier can close abruptly … if you wait to pick until the berry or cluster samples are where you want them, you’re too late. Sometimes the harvest window can be only 2 or 3 days.”
Vinification is equally tricky. The skins of Viognier grapes are high in phenolic compounds that can give wines a bitter, astringent quality; hence skin contact needs to be minimized and crushing must be gentle. The distinctive aromatic notes that make Viognier so memorable can be easily lost to oxidization and excessive handling. Barrel fermentation can be exceptionally challenging.
There are more than 60 clones of Viognier that have been identified. Additionally, older U.S. plantings of Rousanne were often mislabeled Viognier. Wine expert Remington Norman, MW, has identified two distinct strains of Viognier. The “Old World” strain is most common in Condrieu while the “New World” strain is most common in Languedoc and outside of France. The two strains produce very different wines. The New World strain seems to be more heat tolerant, but produces wines that have less intensity and aroma than those produced in Condrieu.
In the U.S., newer plantings of Viognier typically utilize one or more of three clones: 642, 1042 and 1051. All three are based on selections made by ENTAV, a French organization that, “selects, grows and tests the best clones out of France.” All the selections came from vineyards in Condrieu. Most Viognier producers do not give any clonal information on the bottle.
Viognier Grapes
Photo, courtesy Anachronist/WIkipediaAt its best, Viognier produces a rich full-bodied wine with pronounced floral and fruit aromatics, especially notes of peach, apricot, pear, melon and tropical fruits, along with floral aromas of honeysuckle and violet and a sweet gingerbread spiciness, accompanied by an earthy white pepper herbal quality. On the palate it can be soft, lush and smooth, especially if it is barrel fermented and gets extended time on its lees.
The acidity is usually subdued. That’s one reason why Viognier is rarely used for late harvest wines and why when picked late it can result in overly sweet, high alcoholic, flabby wines. Often times its pronounced aromatics can be accompanied by a core of minerality, although this is often lost when barrel fermented. The wine often appears sweet on the nose, but is usually dry on the palate.
Viognier in Southern Oregon
Historically, Pinot Gris has been considered Oregon’s signature white grape varietal. In the Willamette Valley, it has been joined by Chardonnay and Riesling to form a triumvirate of increasingly lauded white wines. In Southern Oregon, on the other hand, it has been Viognier that has increasingly established itself as the region’s signature white grape varietal.
Southern Oregon’s long, dry summers, and the microclimates afforded by the varying aspects and elevations of the region’s rolling terrain, create pockets that are ideally suited for Viognier. According to Bree Stock, MW, the Education Manager at the Oregon Wine Board:
“The growing climate of Southern Oregon becomes remarkably cool in September and often stalls fruit ripening. The combination of high UV and huge diurnal temperature shifts in the Rogue Valley also promote those cool climate peppery aromatics.”
It’s still a work in progress however. When Southern Oregon’s Viognier is good, it is world class good. It can also be lackluster, lacking the distinctive aromatics of the varietal and more akin to a mass-produced, budget Chardonnay.
Vineyard location, vintage and winemaker are the key to distinguishing the exceptional from the common. Below are tasting notes from a selection of some of the better Viognier bottlings from some of the region’s best producers. All wines were tasted at room temperature. ARP denotes average retail price.
Kriselle Cellars 2015 Viognier, Rogue Valley, 14.5% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $22
Kriselle Vineyards 2016, Viognier, 14.4% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $22
Kriselle Cellars 2018 Viognier, 13.8% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $22
On the nose, the 2015 has a distinctive aroma of fresh Asian pear, along with some melon, very slight lime and some honeysuckle, along with a hint of wet stone minerality. On the palate, it’s dry, with pear and overripe apple notes and a hint of bitterness. The acidity is subdued, but the wine is very smooth and the alcohol very well integrated. The finish is medium length, with lingering pear notes.
The 2016 vintage is distinctly herbal, with anise, overripe apple and lime notes. On the palate, there are also slight peach and tropical fruit notes of pineapple, along with some floral potpourri, a hint of minerality and a slight bitter note. The wine is dry, full bodied and creamy.
On the nose, the 2018 vintage is very similar to the 2016, exhibiting the same herbal quality, along with notes of anise, ripe apple and pear. Overall, however, it doesn’t have the intensity of the 2016. On the palate, there are notes of lime, ripe pear, slight peach, melon and tropical notes, and a hint of bitterness.
These are all excellent wines. Technically well made. My sense is all three, especially the 2015 and 2016, were picked a bit later than optimum, hence the lower aromatics and higher alcohol. Served chilled they are very drinkable, affordable and make excellent summer wines. For me the 2016 exhibits the most Viognier character, although none of the three exhibit the aromatic intensity I look for in Viognier. Still, if your palate runs to Chardonnay, you’ll enjoy these wines and the flavor profile they offer.
Scores: 2015 8.5/10, 2016: 8.8/10, 2018: 8.5/10
The Rogue Valley AVA
Map, courtesy Oregon Wine BoardTroon Vineyard, Applegate Valley, 2018 Viognier Blend, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $35
The Applegate Valley sits about 20-miles west of Grants Pass. It’s among the coolest of the wine growing regions of Southern Oregon, and is ideally suited for growing Viognier. Troon’s Viognier blend is a classic Rhone mix of 51% Viognier, 28% Marsanne and 21% Roussanne.
On the nose, there are herbal notes, apple, some citrus and anise, along with some stone fruit, spicy Asian pear and a hint of tropical fruits. On the palate, it’s full bodied, with pronounced acidity and flavors of pear and stone fruit. The finish is long, with apple and pear flavors and a lingering bitter note.
Score: 9/10
Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden Viognier, Applegate Valley 2018 Viognier, 14.4% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $37
Like its Applegate neighbor Troon, Cowhorn is biodynamically farmed. On the nose, it’s herbal, but greener, more fresh cut grass than dried. There are notes of anise, apple and peach, along with a hint of minerality. On the palate, the wine is smooth, creamy and viscous, with a crisp acidity and flavors of apple, hints of peach and citrus zest. The finish is long, with apple notes and a slight hint of bitterness.
Score: 9/10
Quady North, Mae’s Vineyard, Ox Block, Applegate Valley 2017 Viognier, 13.8% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $24
The Ox Block planting is a particularly steep vineyard tract in the Applegate Valley. It has a pronounced diurnal temperature variation that allows grapes to retain acidity. On the nose, there are pronounced apple and pear aromas, along with a hint of grassiness, some white pepper, and floral elements and slight citrus, especially grapefruit notes. On the palate, there is a crisp acidity, think green apples, with pronounced flavors of pear, along with some apricot and citrus. The wine has just a hint of sweetness and a slight, refreshing bitter note. The finish is long, off dry, with lingering pear flavors and a touch of bitterness. Possibly the best of the Applegate Viognier offerings.
Score: 9/10
Weisinger, Avra Vineyard, Rogue Valley 2017 Viognier, 14.1% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $26
Avra is an east facing vineyard, which means it gets lots of morning sun but is sparred the heat of late afternoon. On the nose, there are pronounced aromas of lemon and lime, along with notes of white pepper. The latter may be a marker for Southern Oregon Viognier as it crops up quite frequently in tasting notes. White pepper is a characteristic aroma of Viognier, but it seems more pronounced in Southern Oregon; a characteristic it shares with Condrieu. This is particularly true of cooler years. White pepper is more earthy and herbal and is less piquant than black pepper.
On the palate, there is a crisp acidity, lemon and lime notes, with a hint of peach and apricot. This wine is barrel fermented in neutral oak, which gives it a creamy character and a more pronounced palate weight. This is a dry wine, with a long, lingering, creamy, fruity finish and the slight bitterness typical of Viognier.
Score: 9/10
A Vineyard at 2 Hawk Winery
Photo, courtesy 2 Hawk Vineyard and Winery2 Hawk Vineyard and Winery is one of the better known wine producers in the Rogue Valley. The valley is Oregon’s southernmost, and is the warmest and driest of the Southern Oregon AVAs. The region is surrounded by the Coast, Klamath and Cascade mountains, which offer a variety of aspects and elevations. The valley bottoms trap heat and are generally to hot for grape growing. Most of the cooler varietals are grown at elevations of between 1,300 and 2,000 feet. The western portions of the valley receive cool winds from the Pacific Ocean and have a more pronounced maritime influence. 2 Hawk produces a variety of Viognier expressions, including both barrel and tank fermented offerings.
2 Hawk, Rogue Valley 2017 Viognier, 13.8% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $26
2 Hawk, Rogue Valley 2018 Viognier, 13.6%, ABV, 750 ml. ARP $26
Both of these expressions are tank fermented using wild yeast and left sur lies for six months. Both years were ideal for ripening Viognier, with a cool, dry autumn that allowed for maximum hang time and which was generally free of the spikes in temperature that can play havoc with Viognier. All of 2 Hawk’s Viognier is produced from the FPS01 clone. This is a clone sourced in France in the 1970s, and is the most common clone found in the older California and Southern Oregon Viognier vineyards.
On the nose, both wines show floral aromas and a pronounced lemon note, followed by apple and pear notes and intense ripe tropical and stone fruit aromas, think peach, mango melon and pineapple. The 2017 is fruitier, while the 2018 is a bit more herbal, with earthy, white pepper notes.
On the palate, both wines are dry. The 2017 exhibits a touch more sweetness. Both wines show the creaminess typical of extended aging on the lees with notes of lemon, apple, pear and the expected stone and tropical fruit notes. The 2017 seems more tropical, while the 2018 has more pronounced apple and pear notes. Both show a brisk acidity. The finish is long. The 2017 is more fruit forward, with a lingering almost candied citrus like note, while the 2018 is more herbal, with a more noticeable herbal and bitter note. Both have a distinctive palate weight, and both are outstanding.
Scores 2017: 9.2/10, 2018 9/10
2 Hawk. Rogue Valley, Viognier Darow Series 2016, 14.5% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $46
2 Hawk, Rogue Valley, Viognier Darow Series 2017, 13.9% ABV, 750 ml. ARP $46
Darow is a type of soil found in Southern Oregon. It is described in soil surveys as “inextensive,” meaning it is not commonly found. It consists of weathered siltstone, shale or tuffaceous sandstone rocks. It drains well, is relatively low in nutrients, and is typically found on slopes. According to 2 Hawk, the series is named, “after our estate’s vineyard most prevalent soil type.”
The Darow Series Viognier is barrel fermented using 50% new and 50% one-year-old barrels of French oak. The wine spends 11 months on its lees, followed by six months in stainless steel tank. Fermentation utilizes wild yeasts indigenous to the vineyard.
On the nose, the 2016 is a rich wine offering up aromas of tropical fruit, stone fruit and a hint of apple. On the palate, this is a creamy, dense wine, with a distinctive palate weight. It’s redolent of tropical fruits notes, with a layered complexity that features citrus zest, apricot and melon, along with subtle notes of honey, apricot and a hint of vanilla all wrapped up in a crème brûlée like richness and a crisp acidity. The finish is spectacularly long and concentrated, with lingering fruit notes and just a touch of bitterness.
The 2017 is similar. On the nose, the coconut notes are more pronounced. There are the same fruit notes of green, stone and tropical fruits. The 2017 exhibits more dried herbal notes than its older brother. The finish is less intense, but equally long, with lingering fruit notes and a more distinctive bitter note.
Score 2016 9.5/10, 2017 9.1/10
Southern Oregon has the potential to be one of the world’s great producers of Viognier. This is a work in progress however. Vintage and producer are key to picking the region’s best expressions. If your tastes run to fruit forward expressions, especially if you like rich wines with a hint of minerality, then opt for tank fermented expressions with ABVs in the 14% and up range. If you are looking for a style that is less fruit forward, leaner, more herbal, look for tank fermented versions that are below 14%.
If your tastes run to rich, opulent, California style Chardonnays, then opt for the barrel fermented expressions. This will deliver a creamy, dense wine, with distinctive fruit notes, although fruit intensity will vary with the vintage, and a long lingering finish.
Either way, Southern Oregon’s Viognier offers a world of possibilities that will suit any palate. This is a wine that will increasingly become the region’s signature expression.
August 01, 2020 at 08:11PM
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