It was a chardonnay from Napa’s Chateau Montelena that beat French wines in the historic 1976 “Judgment of Paris” competition, heroically portrayed in the 2008 movie Bottle Shock.
And all it took was a rant by Paul Giamatti’s disgruntled character in the 2004 wine road trip flick Sideways to cause merlot sales to plummet.
His passion for pinot noir, however, had the opposite effect.
When it comes to wines, those three are arguably the most popular and menu-friendly — the names even the most casual wine drinkers know and can pronounce.
However, there are many other high-profile varieties that grow right here and fuel a thriving Arizona wine industry.
Here's what to know about Arizona wine
More than 100 Arizona wineries rely on fruit from the three designated American Viticultural Areas of the Verde Valley, Sonoita and Willcox. Serving as the state’s three main wine regions, the vast majority of grapes are grown in the Sonoita and Willcox areas in the south and southeastern parts of the state.
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Arizona’s viticulture history dates back to 16th century Spanish Jesuit priests, who planted grapes to make wine for religious ceremonies. While it has evolved over the centuries, the Arizona wine industry has been commercially bubbling since the late 20th century and has picked up even more momentum over the last 15 years.
Sure, we lack the obvious verdancy of Napa, the Willamette Valley and the Columbia Valley. But there’s more than ideal temperatures, ample rainfall and central-casting soil when it comes to growing fruit and producing impressive wines.
Old World wine regions near the Mediterranean – think Italy, Spain and southern France – share commonalities with the state’s wine regions. Hence, many of that region's varieties have found a solid home here including syrah, grenache and mourvedre, which hail from the Southern Rhone Valley, home to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation.
“What thrives here are varieties that grow in regions with a similar climate to what we have. You can see it in the vines…when they’re in the climate they want to be grown in,” said Michael Pierce, director of viticulture and enology at the Southwest Wine Center at Yavapai College, and winemaker Bodega Pierce winery and Saeculum Cellars.
But Arizona's desert southwest terroir also brings elements that give a distinct Arizona edge to even classic and widely grown grapes.
“You have riesling from Arizona, but it may taste totally different from anything you’ve had from those grapes,” said Todd Bostock, winemaker for Dos Cabezas WineWorks.
Want to get into Arizona wine but need a point in the right direction? These are some good starts.
Grenache/Garnacha
One of the most widely planted grapes in the world, it’s known for its bold dark fruit palate that typically results in a friendly medium-bodied red that doesn’t push too much tannin – the bitterness and dryness that can make you pucker or slightly clench your jaw when you sip and swallow – or acid. Sometimes, it may taste like a fruit roll-up with a hint of earthiness. It’s also known by its Spanish name, garnacha.
Syrah
Big and dark, this would be a more interesting substitute for a Cabernet Sauvignon at a steak dinner or great for sipping after dinner. It can run the gamut from dark berries and chocolate to tobacco or savory meat.
Mourvedre/monastrell
Full-bodied and meaty, this wine can share similarities with syrah but with a higher tannin. It’s often blended with grenache and syrah to create the popular trio known as "GSM." It’s also known by its Spanish name monastrell.
Tempranillo
This Spanish variety tends to be very food friendly with flavors that span cherry and leather with red fruit notes. Arizona-grown versions may boast a hint of sweet spice and tobacco.
Petite Sirah
No, it’s not the junior version of syrah. It’s is own variety that’s recognizable by its super deep red, almost purple, shade and full bodied notes of plum, chocolate and black pepper. Its high tannin makes it a popular blending grape with less hefty varieties but also a solid partner for rich dishes.
Sangiovese
The Italian variety is the primary grape used in making chianti. High tannin and acidity makes it a foil for dishes that boast rich tomato sauces, gooey cheese and vibrant herbs. It can be fruity or earthy.
Roussanne
This full-bodied southern France variety tends to surprise with its dry, stone fruit with a hint of butter palate. It’s often part of a blend but it’s not hard to find it bottled solo.
Chardonnay
It needs no introduction so just know that local winemakers tend to steer clear of the buttery super oaky styles of California and embrace a more delicate brighter rendition. Think citrus with hints of vanilla and creaminess.
Viognier
Perfume-y and airy, this fun wine pushes peach, citrus and honeysuckle. It’s usually dry but don’t be surprised to come across off-dry interpretations that play off its fresh aromas.
Riesling
At first, it may strike some as odd that this German variety not only grows but also does well here for the few growers that take on the challenge. There are some sweet takes on it but for the most part it’s done dry or off-dry with stone fruit, pear and perhaps a hint of lemon. As it ages, petrol may become part of the package, but in a good way. Crisp, light and lacking in tannins, you’ll often see it listed as a go-to for spicy Asian dishes.
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September 01, 2020 at 10:00PM
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