Blame “Sideways.”
Or rather, blame Miles Raymond, the wine-obsessed character in the outstanding 2004 movie.
Throughout the film, Raymond (played brilliantly by Paul Giamatti) regularly makes disparaging remarks about Merlot, one of the most common red wine grapes in the world.
The movie was fictional. But Raymond’s remarks had real-life consequences. Sales of Merlot wine throughout California plummeted after the popular movie came out.
Even now, more than decade later, some people still refuse to drink Merlot. Some so-called experts still feel the same way as well. As recently as a few months ago, I read a wine column written by a professional wine writer who claimed Giamatti’s character was right and that “Merlot is actually a pretty bad grape.”
Nothing could be further from the truth.
Some of the best wines in the world are made with Merlot grapes.
Even in the movie “Sideways,” for example, Miles' prized 1961 Cheval Blanc is made partly with – you guessed it – Merlot grapes just like many of the best Bordeaux red wines from the St. Emilion region.
As for California, many high-priced, Cabernet Sauvignons grab most of the headlines. Not to generalize, but many of these wines are some of the most over-rated and overpriced red wines on the market.
Instead, you can find some of the best – and most affordable – red wines coming out of California in recent years if you give some of their magnificent Merlots a chance.
The past few weeks, I have been working my way through several different California Merlots. And each time, I was thoroughly impressed by the quality of all of them at all price levels.
So this week, I decided to highlight some of my favorite California Merlots, a few of which cost less than $22 a bottle. Let me add that this is just a small sampling of some of the terrific Merlots on the market. There are many other great ones out there, I’m sure, and I’d love to hear more about which ones you like as well. Hope you enjoy.
THIS WEEK’S RECOMMENDED WINES
2018 Rutherford Ranch Merlot Napa Valley ($26 Suggested Retail Price)
2018 Duckhorn Decoy Merlot ($25 SRP)
2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot ($49 at Table & Vine in West Springfield)
2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt Guidestone Rise Alexander Valley Merlot ($22 SRP)
2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt Salmon’s Leap Dry Creek Valley Merlot ($22 SRP)
2017 Seavey Napa Valley Merlot ($65 SRP)
MORE ABOUT MERLOT
Wine has been made with Merlot grapes for more than two centuries, according to “Wine Grapes” by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz. Specifically, this red-wine grape has been used to make wine particularly in France’s Bordeaux region since the 1780s. Worldwide, Merlot grapes are the second most planted grape in the world, just behind Cabernet Sauvignon. In the United States, Merlot grapes are the fourth-most planted grape. (The top three are Chardonnay at number one, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio.)
WHERE MERLOT WINES ARE MADE
If there are grapes grown somewhere to make wine, odds are there are Merlot grapevines somewhere in those fields. You can find Merlot wines made almost everywhere in the world. But perhaps the best known Merlot wine growing region is Bordeaux’s Right Bank, where the primary grape used to make these outstanding wines is Merlot. Located on the right side of the Gironde River, Bordeaux’s Right Bank includes some of the most iconic wine villages, including Saint Emilion and Pomerol. You can also find many outstanding Merlots in Italy, Chile and South Africa, as well as California.
MORE ABOUT CALIFORNIA MERLOTS
What makes many California Merlots so memorable in my opinion is their mellow, understated flavors. While many California Cabernet Sauvignons seem to scream “PAY ATTENTION TO ME” in all caps, California Merlots often take a much more understated, easy going approach. And while you can find many great Merlots from throughout the state, many wineries in Napa and Sonoma Counties excel at making marvelous Merlot wines.
WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Rutherford Ranch Merlot Napa Valley
Tasting Notes - This delightful, easy drinking wine has a wide range of flavors - from slightly spicy notes to hints of dried fruit, including hints of cherry and raspberry. But more than anything, like many of the Merlots recommended this week, this understated wine has a soft, mellow finish that goes great with many different types of foods, including chicken, meat and pasta.
2018 Duckhorn Decoy Merlot
Tasting Notes - Duckhorn winery consistently produces some of the best Merlot wines in California, year in and year out. The 2018 Duckhorn Decoy is no exception. Smooth and soft straight out of the bottle, this wonderful wine from California’s Sonoma County abounds with soft, vibrant fruit flavors, ranging from fresh-picked plums to blackberries. Made with 98 percent Merlot grapes and 1 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, I was thoroughly impressed by this wine from start to finish, especially since it’s one of the most affordable ones recommended this week. Let me add that this wine still tastes great several days after first opening the bottle.
2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot
Tasting Notes - Anyone who thinks all California Merlot wines are soft and mellow needs to taste this intense, red wine. While not a pure Merlot wine (it’s 80 percent Merlot, 16 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5 percent Cabernet Franc, 1 percent Petit Verdot and 0.5 percent Malbec), this voluptuous powerhouse packs a strong punch. An absolutely incredible, sultry wine overflowing with deep, dark flavors, including fresh ripe plums and dark chocolate. The finish on the wine lasts at least minute after each sip. And like its Decoy sibling, Duckhorn’s Napa Valley Merlot still tastes outstanding days after the bottle was first opened.
2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt Guidestone Rise Alexander Valley Merlot
Tasting Notes - If I were to choose one word to describe this wine it would be “smooth.” From start to finish, this soft, silky red wine tastes like a textbook California Merlot made with passion and pride. A truly easy drinking wine, my wife and I happily breezed our way through the bottle over several nights like a sailboat on smooth as glass water.
2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt Salmon’s Leap Dry Creek Valley Merlot
Tasting Notes - Another easy drinking Merlot from Chelsea Goldschmidt, this wine maybe finishes a hair ahead of the other winery’s Merlot recommended this week. That might be because this velvety smooth wine was aged in 90 percent French Oak barrels, which often give many wines an extra smooth finish. Its flavors and aromas cover a wide range, including cherries and blackberries. A truly easy-drinking wine perfect for a laid back, relaxing night.
2017 Seavey Napa Valley Merlot
Tasting Notes - One of the best Merlots I’ve tasted this year, this beautiful, well-rounded wine from the St. Helena part of Napa Valley has a long, lush, fragrant finish. Big, ripe flavors and aromas range from dried plums and blackberries to hints of cherry and raspberry. Bold without being over the top, this magnificent Merlot and the others recommended this week illustrate why this often overlooked grape deserves far more attention and respect.
Cheers!
Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s weekend section every Thursday.
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November 10, 2020 at 02:30AM
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