The new year beckoned new experiences at one of Morocco’s most emblematic hotels. Last year, La Mamounia Marrakech underwent extensive renovations to its food and beverage programming, which included the reveal of an underground wine cellar for its increasingly wine-versed guests.
“The clientele is more knowledgeable than ever when it comes to wines or spirits,” says Pierre Jochem, general manager at La Mamounia. “We noticed that more international guests, the American market in particular, are looking for special bottles.”
Although La Mamounia previously offered an impressive wine inventory, the hotel seized the renovation opportunity to create a distinct wine experience. Parisian design firm Jouin Manku was already transforming the restaurants and common areas—reimagining spaces—and that is how L’Œnothèque, or “the wine bar” came to life.
The entrance to the underground wine cellar at La Mamounia.
Alan Keohane for La MamouniaOpened at the beginning of January, L’Œnothèque is carved under the grand swimming pool, where 2000 bottles of rare wines surround a custom-made, lava-stone table. The centerpiece is framed by a Moroccan string chandelier that allows light to shine through and set the stage for the head sommelier to lead guests through an intimate and immersive tasting menu. L’Œnothèque embraces guests with warming Moroccan tones and textures in theme with the rest of the property.
“Ensuring a smooth transition of eras and a delicate rebalancing of the energies, the new-look property delivers a contemporary concept, whilst maintaining the traditional taste,” says Jochem.
Below, Jochem expands on the concept of L’Œnothèque, along with La Mamounia’s ability to adapt to ever-changing demands from a vast international audience.
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Jillian Dara: How did the idea of creating an underground wine experience come about?
Pierre Jochem: It was a way to breathe energy into this part of the property which once formed a sort of barrier between the hotel and the swimming pool, but also the possibility of creating a place with warm woodwork. We wanted to provide to our wine connoisseurs a unique experience, our restaurant guests can also take advantage of this space dedicated to wines and select from the 1600 finest bottles and 950 references stored appropriately at a perfect temperature, with the expertise of the head sommelier. This space also allows us to decant a specific vintage or a cuvée one or two hours in advance so that the wine can be in optimal conditions when served.
Dara: What about the space is most unique to the property?
Jochem: As the name suggests, wine is king here, and to get a feel of it, the best thing to do is take a seat around the vast four-meter lava stone table, made by Cassina Custom Interiors. Once there, you will find a chandelier in white and red strings (wine colors) made with Moroccan artisans. The presence of wood brings warmth to the place and this string chandelier, which is a true work of art, surrounds a skylight, light that falls directly on the table and plays with the reflections of the wine.
L’Œnothèque at La Mamounia
Alan Keohane for La MamouniaDara: Did you work with any local vineyards, designers, brands or international sommeliers?
Jochem: The wine selected for L’Œnothèque has been the result of discussion with international experts and many years of research around the world to find the rarest bottles. Our head sommelier, Mikael Rodriguez, has been collecting classical references in Chateau and Domaines as well as connoisseur estates for the past few years. We were able to add to our portfolio some great wines like 1982 Romanée-Conti, 1989 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Cros Parantoux, 2010 Penfolds Grange and 2013 Ao Yun.
Dara: What can guests expect upon booking this experience?
Jochem: A staircase situated between the restaurants L’Asiatique par Jean-Georges and L’Italien par Jean-Georges will lead you discreetly underground to a private entrance to a world of refinement: a table d’hôte [tasting menu] for 12 guests, surrounded by a selection of the best and rarest bottles from the cellar of La Mamounia. Our customers can choose from tasting menus highlighting cuisine from one of the restaurants of the hotel. Our head sommelier will propose a selection of the most surprising and exceptional wines for each dish. The art of the table also takes special importance in this space, where handmade dishes and artisanal glassware add to the excellence of the experience.
L’Œnothèque showcases 2000 bottles of rare wines.
Alan Keohane for La MamouniaDara: Why do you think it's so important to offer this type of amenity for your guests?
Jochem: Our international guests who travel from the capital cities of the world, are looking nowadays for more intimate venues where they can experience exclusive offers with their friends and family. It was important for us to create this space to offer our guests an exceptional place that celebrates the hedonism and the art de vivre of La Mamounia through a tailor-made gastronomic journey, paired with some of the most exceptional wines in the world.
Dara: Aside from this new experience, how have the spirits, bar and wine offerings at La Mamounia changed in the last decade? What do you attribute to this?
Jochem: The wine offering at La Mamounia has changed in the past few years to satisfy the increasing demand for rare bottles from our international guests. We have been acquiring more unique bottles, and for some, we are the only ones in Africa to have them. This brought us a lot of attention from the community of wine lovers and collectors from around the world. When it comes to spirits, we are always looking for the latest bar trends but we are still limited to import certain spirits in Morocco. We have been focusing our bars on creations highlighting Moroccan spices, flavors, specific herbs and citrus trees that we grow in our gardens.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
January 29, 2021 at 11:30PM
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