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Thursday, March 25, 2021

Grape Expectations: Ice wine with that deep freeze, anyone? - Waco Tribune-Herald

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OK, so wowza! Since when is the weathermen really right, right? One thing is for sure, unless you are over 100 years of age, everyone is saying they have never seen anything like the deep freeze of 2021.

All 254 Texas counties have been declared disaster zones. The communities of Harper and Doss and the Enchanted Rock area near Fredericksburg were hardest hit. Ranch Road 965 was like a vortex for the Arctic air that got trapped. It started days before arriving here, and did not leave until days after it left.

Lorrie Dicorte

Lorrie Dicorte has been in the wine business for 37 years and her family for 90 years. Her grandfather, Billy Dicorte, and cousin, Tony LaBarbera, were the first to import fine wines such as Ch Lafite Rothschild. Lorrie has served on international wine competition judging panels, and is known for her keen smell and taste.

While we were sunny, they were frozen in a blizzard without any sight of mountains in view. A total white-out. No power or water, and at the time of this writing, power in the middle of the 965 corridor was projected to be weeks away.

It sounded like a war zone with falling trees day and night. Upon the thawing out, disaster could not be worse for so many. Hundreds of thousands of dollars just in tree cleanup for many ranchers, loss of cattle and horses, homes severely damaged, but the sheer grit and determination of these friends of ours is truly amazing. They were helping each other in countless ways unimaginable.

The good news from any of this is that the fruit trees and grapevines will survive here and there. We, as a collective statewide, were lucky that this came before the bud break. Instead of hurting the fruits, it helped shield it.

Sturdy Grapes

Mature grapes can actually withstand temperatures of minus-20 degrees, which is much colder than the temperatures we received, even though it certainly felt that cold to us. Grapevines need a certain amount of cold temperature hours before budding will occur. Call it a built-in thermometer.

No doubt the vines have experienced enough cold hours now, and the best news out of that part is that an even bud break is sure to occur across the state. An even beginning equals an even growth leading to even maturity.

The soils across the state froze below normal levels, this in turn creating a fluffier texture with greater oxygenation.

In the Texas Hill Country peaches are the top crop. Like the grapevines, most trees were not budding yet and are still dormant. The coating of ice helped protect the fruit trees from the frigid temperatures. The trees are well adapted to the state’s weather patterns and were not budding yet.

Those farmers that had a small bud break may lose those, but not the tree or crop. In fact, with fewer buds, the fruit will be larger. Coupled with the moisture that preceded the freeze, instead of a typical dry weather pattern, this will give the trees much-needed moisture.

Canopies seemed to be relatively intact, and not broken. Peach wine and cobbler surely will be divine this year!

Other fruit crops like strawberries, and vegetable crops such as lettuce and kale, may not fare as well. With diligent last-minute protections, they should not be a total loss. Texas pecan trees were hurt with branch damage, and definitely a smaller crop from our beloved state tree will be felt for years. However, the trees will eventually rebound.

Can we just say see ya in another 100 years?! I don’t know about you, but I like to visit ski weather, not live in it. My Chihuahuas are nodding their heads in agreement.

Ice wine has been produced since Roman times. The small town of Chiomonte in Val di Susa made ice wine during that time period, and still today produces one of the very few Italian ice wines.

While Germany and Canada are today’s leading wine producers for frozen grapes, New York’s Finger Lake’s winery, Great Western Winery, produced the United States’ first ice wine in 1981, followed by Michigan with Mark Johnson in 1983 after studying in Germany. Other states such as Pennsylvania and Ohio, are producing the popular dessert wine.

But Texas? Georgetown Winery produces Frost from the Vidal grape. I don’t think there’s much a Texan can’t do.

As we pull out of this freeze with all its damage, our independent spirit will remain intact, and our can-do and will-help attitude will pull us together more than ever.

Wine in Review

Lone Star Frost

Lone Star Frost is an ice wine made by Georgetown Winery. Grapes frozen while on the vine are used in making ice wines.

Lone Star Frost

About: Lone Star Frost is made by Georgetown Winery in Georgetown, Texas. Ice wine is a dessert produced from grapes that have been frozen while they are still on the vine. The sugars and other dissolved solids do not freeze, but the water does, allowing for a more concentrated grape juice to develop.

Tasting notes: Made from Vidal Blanc grapes, this dessert wine has aromas of pears, grapefruit and pineapple. Poached pears laced with vanilla sit on the palate with a long coating on the tongue. Enjoy with bleu cheese, foi gras or sweeter-style desserts.

Cost: $28.95.

Availability: Can be ordered online at georgetownwinery.com. 

Lorrie Dicorte has been in the wine business for 38 years and her family for 90 years. Her grandfather, Billy Dicorte, and cousin, Tony LaBarbera, were the first to import fine wines such as Ch Lafite Rothschild. Lorrie has served on international wine competition judging panels, and is known for her keen smell and taste.




March 25, 2021 at 12:20PM
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Grape Expectations: Ice wine with that deep freeze, anyone? - Waco Tribune-Herald

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