No topic has generated more reader e-mails in eight years of writing this column than the subject of nonalcoholic beers.
Anecdotally, it seems a lot of you are already drinking nonalcoholic beer, and for a variety of reasons. I hear from readers who no longer drink alcoholic beer, who are actively trying to drink less of it, or who just prefer their beer without a buzz during certain occasions. You’ve gotten really into trying new varieties, and send me recommendations often enough that it seems like the interest is there to merit more coverage.
Recent statistics would back up that perception. Sales of nonalcoholic beer rose around 40 percent in 2019 and 2020, according to data from market researcher IRI cited in a Globe story last month. The nonalcoholic beer industry is now a $188 million annual business and growing, with major players such as Heineken and Budweiser competing for those dollars alongside upstarts like Athletic Brewing, as well as a growing number of craft brewers.
In January, I wrote about four nonalcoholic beers I especially like. Here are four more great options I’ve tried since.
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Dogfish Head Lemon Quest (90 calories): When I told Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione I was writing about Lemon Quest, he sent me an e-mail sharing a recent experience with the beer.
“I had four [Lemon Quests] while shooting videos for Dogfish social channels on the beach yesterday,” he wrote. “In addition to being super refreshing, after a four-can-drinking-session, I went for a long bike ride late afternoon — the whole experience felt like cheating Satan out of my hangover.”
That’s a feeling I get more and more these days with nonalcoholic beers, as brewers drastically step it up on quality and flavor. In this case, Dogfish Head surveyed drinkers on which flavor of N/A beer they’d want the most and settled on a fruited wheat beer. Lemon Quest is a take on a shandy or radler, and it’s unabashedly Dogfish, made with lemon puree, acai berries, monk fruit, and sea salt. It tastes like a cross between a wheat beer and a lemonade.
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One local programming note: This summer, Dogfish will be teaming up with the Boston-based running brand Tracksmith on a series of in-person events at their Newbury Street location.
BrewDog Faux Fox (29 calories): Sticking with the fruit theme, the UK-founded BrewDog has been killing it with sour N/A beers lately. Faux Fox sharp raspberry is a Berliner style beer that looks as good in the glass (it’s hot pink) as it tastes drinking straight from the can. From spending many pandemic hours watching the Great British Baking Show I knew that “sharp” is what we usually refer to as sour, but this beer isn’t too much so. Think of this as a raspberry seltzer with more flavor.
BrewDog Nanny State (21 calories/serving): It may seem like cheating to include another BrewDog beer, but outside of Athletic, there may not be another brewery doing as many exciting things in the nonalcoholic beer space right now. There are seven N/A beers listed for sale on BrewDog’s website, and I’ve tried them all. Nanny State tastes most like the average person’s concept of a regular beer. Brewed with eight different malts as well as Centennial, Amarillo, Columbus, Cascade, and Simcoe hops, the beer pours chestnut-colored in a glass and tastes bitter and chocolately. One of my favorites to date.
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Lagunitas IPNA (80 calories): Back in April, a reader named David G. sent me a note that read, “I’ve kept experimenting with Non-Alcohol IPAs and have finally found one that’s head and shoulders above the rest: Lagunitas IPNA. Rich, hoppy, and extremely satisfying. You know you’re drinking a Non-Alc but it doesn’t matter. You should give it a try.”
I’m pretty sure David doesn’t work for Lagunitas, and I trust his opinion, but I still wanted to try IPNA for myself. This week, I picked up a 6-pack at my local liquor store, and cracked a couple bottles during my family’s taco night. Brewed with Citra and Mosaic hops, the beer pours a pale straw in the glass. Sniff deeply and you get aromas of lemon zest and cut grass. The taste is piney and pleasantly bitter.
While I don’t agree with David that it’s far and away the best N/A IPA —offerings from BrewDog and Athletic compare favorably — it’s another solid offering for anyone looking to dive deeper into the category.
Gary Dzen can be reached at gary.dzen@globe.com.Follow him on Twitter @garydzen.
June 08, 2021 at 07:00PM
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Reviewing 4 great nonalcoholic beers - The Boston Globe
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